Avery Collins
Dining in the Victorian era was an art form, with dinner parties becoming complex rituals. The arrangement of utensils and tableware was a reflection of the host's standing in society, with silver, gold, and porcelain being favoured by royalty and the aristocracy. In the 18th century, each course was served with new utensils and a new tablecloth. The number of utensils increased with the number of courses, and each food had a specific utensil, such as asparagus tongs or tomato servers. The extravagance of one's flatware was considered proportional to their wealth. Similarly, in the 19th century, the debate around popular, bourgeois, and aristocratic cooking influenced the structure of meals, with dishes being moved to subsequent courses or assigned new roles.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Utensils arrangement | All different dishes were placed on the table at the same time in exactly prescribed locations |
| Utensils used | Silver service platters, electric percolators, coffee urns, trays, fruit knives, fruit plates, fruit spoons, sugar bowls, salt and pepper shakers, fruit forks, silver covers, bowls, plates, cups, saucers, knives, spoons, electric toasters, porcelain, candelabra, etc. |
| Table setting | Bare, doilied table |
| Number of courses | 2 courses and a dessert |
| Food served | Fruit, cereal, bacon, fish, eggs, toast, hot rolls, muffins, coffee, tea, cocoa, etc. |
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What You'll Learn
Gilded Age breakfast etiquette
The Gilded Age, a term coined by American author and satirist Mark Twain, was a time of extremes in American history. While 90% of the nation's families lived in poverty, a privileged 10% enjoyed luxurious lifestyles, and their dining habits were no exception.
Breakfast Etiquette
Breakfast was to be "daintily and deftly served", with fruit, cereal, and a main dish such as bacon, fish, or eggs, accompanied by toast, hot rolls, muffins, coffee, tea, or cocoa. Fresh fruit was served on a small plate with a silver fruit knife for peeling and quartering. Berries and cooked fruits were offered in little dishes with sugar and cream.
Coffee was made at the table with an electric percolator and poured by the hostess, who would ask guests their preferences regarding cream and sugar. It was important to add the cream and sugar to the cup before pouring the coffee, as this affected the flavour. If children were present, they were served on a tray with small, attractive knives and spoons to encourage neatness and self-reliance.
Dinner Etiquette
Dinner parties were complex rituals, with extreme attention paid to the details of serving and dining. The dining table was laid with gleaming mother-of-pearl and silver flatware, golden candelabra, and exquisite porcelain, reflecting the host's standing in society. Each course required its own utensils, and the extravagance of one's flatware was considered proportional to one's wealth.
Guests were expected to arrive punctually between 7:30 and 8:30 pm, with 8 o'clock being the most popular time for dinner. They were greeted by the hostess, who received them before they gathered in the parlor. Dinner consisted of two courses and a dessert. When the second course was served, new dishes, utensils, and a new tablecloth were provided. The second course consisted of lighter dishes, such as fruit tarts, jellies, and creams. After the second course, the tablecloth was removed, and dessert was served, usually consisting of finger foods such as dried fruit, nuts, small cakes, and cheese.
Seating Etiquette
The host entered first with the most senior lady, who had the honour of choosing her seat first. The hostess then sat at the head of the table, and the remaining guests were free to choose their places. There was no specific placement for guests, and this arrangement allowed for a favourable courting atmosphere.
Luncheon Etiquette
Luncheon was a more informal affair. If a hot luncheon was served, vegetables were not placed on the table but handed to guests by a waiter. The master or mistress of the house was offered the first entrée, and each guest was asked for their preference.
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Tableware as a status symbol
In the past, tableware was considered a status symbol, with the extravagance of one's flatware seen as a reflection of their wealth and social standing. This tradition can be traced back to the Victorian era, when dining became an art form among the elite. During this time, dinner parties became elaborate rituals, with intricate details, lighting, and decorations. The table settings were just as important, with affluent hosts showcasing their prosperity through luxurious tableware.
The materials used for tableware played a significant role in conveying status. Silver, gold, and fine porcelain from prestigious factories like Sèvres and Meissen were favoured by royalty and the upper classes. For instance, a dinner service made of earthenware or common India China denoted a "middling rank", while the wealthy could afford Chelsea porcelain and fine India China.
The number of courses served and the variety of utensils and dishes used during a meal also indicated social status. Traditional dinner parties among the aristocracy could feature upwards of 14 courses, with each course requiring its own unique utensils. This led to the creation of specialised utensils, such as fish forks, cake knives, asparagus tongs, and tomato servers. Even more prized were utensils designed for exotic foods like chocolate, oysters, and ice cream.
The arrangement of tableware also followed specific rules, especially in the 18th century. Each course was presented in the French manner, with all dishes placed on the table simultaneously and in precise locations. Guests would help themselves to the nearest dishes, sometimes passing their plates to neighbours. This meant that the arrangement of food and tableware was carefully calculated to ensure an interesting selection was within reach of each guest.
The host's seating position was also indicative of their status. In 18th-century England, the host would enter first with the most senior lady and take a seat at the foot of the table. Upon the hostess's entrance, she would assume her place at the head, and the senior lady would choose her seat, usually near the hostess to signify her importance.
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The role of servants
Servants were responsible for the intricate preparations and rituals surrounding aristocratic meals. They would lay the table with the appropriate utensils and tableware, ensuring that everything was in its prescribed location. The servants would also serve the food, with lower-ranking servants often eating after their employers, sometimes even consuming the same dishes, but cold. In some instances, servants would eat more simple fare, such as roast mutton, veal, or Irish stew. However, they also had the opportunity to taste delicacies that they would not usually have access to, such as leftover exotic foods like chocolate, oysters, and ice cream.
The servants' meals were presided over by senior staff members such as the housekeeper and butler, who would also monitor their conversation during the meal. The most senior servants would then retire to the housekeeper's room for dessert and wine, while the lower-ranking servants remained. The servants' meals were often a solemn affair, eaten in near silence.
In terms of breakfast, it is plausible that servants would wake up at sunrise to eat a simple meal of porridge prepared by the cooks, ensuring they were ready to serve the aristocrats when they woke up later. The cooks may also have prepared the porridge the night before, allowing the servants to simply heat it up in the morning.
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Multi-course meals
In the 18th century, breakfast was a simple meal, with families in America eating "Good Morning, Muffins", cornbread and butter, or porridge, eggs, fish and bacon in England. Lunch did not exist, and supper was a light meal that took place late at night. Dinner was the major meal of the day and lasted up to two hours. It was a highly ritualised affair, with strict rules of etiquette.
In 18th-century England, diners were highly conscious of the cultural customs of dining. For the upper classes, there were rules dictating everything from dress to leaving the dining room. Women would change their entire outfit for the meal, donning a corset, bodice, stockings, pettice, gown, ruffles and shoes. Men would take less time, usually just repowdering their hair.
Dinner parties were an opportunity for young men and women to court potential mates. The host would enter first with the most senior lady, and they would sit at the foot and head of the table, respectively. The senior lady would be the first to choose her seat, and the remaining guests would then be free to choose their places. There was no specific placement for guests, so they could choose their seatmates. Each meal consisted of two courses and a dessert.
The first course started with soup, followed by fish, and then roasts such as turkey, ham, or venison. The second course consisted of lighter dishes, including fruit tarts, jellies and creams. Wine, beer, ale, soda or water accompanied the first and second courses, while gentlemen preferred port or sherry. After the second course, the tablecloth was removed and dessert was served. Dessert included dried fruit, nuts, small cakes, confections and cheese, with gentlemen drinking port and ladies a sweet wine.
In the 19th century, breakfast became a more sumptuous meal, with bacon, eggs and even steak. Afternoon tea was also introduced, with tea sandwiches, biscuits, petit fours, nuts and glazed fruits served on fine china. Dinner was an elaborate affair with multiple courses: soup, roast meats or fish, vegetables, puddings and sweets.
By the 20th century, formal meals consisted of seven courses: cold hors d'oeuvres, soup, fish, entrée, roast, salad and dessert, followed by after-dinner coffee. However, by 1945, formal dinners at private homes had shortened to five courses: soup, fish or entrée, roast, salad and dessert, with after-dinner coffee.
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Dining rituals
In 18th-century England, dining rituals were highly structured, with cultural rules dictating everything from dress to seating arrangements. For instance, it was customary for upper-class women to change their entire outfit for the evening meal, which could take over an hour. Men would also prepare, although this usually involved just repowdering their hair. The host would enter first with the most senior lady, who would be the first to choose her seat. The remaining guests were then free to choose their own seats, usually selecting their dining companions.
The food itself was also highly ritualised. Each course would be served with new dishes, utensils, and a new tablecloth. The first course would consist of soup, followed by a fish course. The main course would then be served, with roast and boiled meats and fowls, accompanied by various side plates. Each course would have its own specific utensils, with up to 14 courses requiring a different utensil for each.
The manner of eating was also carefully choreographed. For instance, it was considered "inexpressibly vulgar" to directly offer to assist a neighbour; instead, phrases such as "Shall I send you some mutton?" were recommended. It was also considered important to begin eating as soon as one was served, and waiting for others was considered "old-fashioned" and "ill-bred".
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Frequently asked questions
In the 18th century, the objects used to lay a table were indicative of the host's standing in society. Silver, gold, and European porcelain were used by royalty and aristocrats. Each course of an aristocratic meal required its own set of utensils, and the extravagance of one's flatware was seen as a reflection of their wealth. Utensils were placed according to the order of the meal, with new utensils brought out for each course.
Breakfast in the Gilded Age typically included fruit, cereal, and a main dish such as bacon, fish, or eggs, accompanied by toast, hot rolls, or muffins. Various fruits were served with a silver fruit knife for quartering and peeling. Cereals were served in bowls with sugar and cream, and toast was made at the table with an electric toaster.
Utensils were arranged according to the formality of the occasion and the number of courses being served. In the French manner, each course consisted of multiple dishes placed on the table simultaneously in precise locations. Diners would help themselves to the nearest dishes without moving them, and they might pass their plates to their neighbours for food that was out of reach.
